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正確防曬你選對了嗎?首先要了解UVA、UVB、PA、SPF《正確防曬攻略》

文章更新於 2020年6 月24日 by Yvonne

正確防曬有多重要! 美國一位貨車司機28年的親生案列

曬太陽會導致皮膚曬黑老化,所以許多皮膚科醫生、美容師、YouTube等都在強調防曬的重要性!!

紫外線

【要知道我們做的所有保養的是建立在皮膚不受到紫外線的傷害上才有效果】

因為紫外線帶給皮膚的傷害,絕對大過於做任何的保養修復,所以防曬是不可馬虎的

案例

但小編還是遇非常多客人都沒在使用防曬,而我就會拿這個實際案例給客人看,幾乎大家看到都是目瞪口呆,就讓我們來看下去。

美國一名司機,他用28年的親生經歷來告訴我們防曬的重要,美國跟我們台灣一樣是左駕,所以左臉比較容易接觸到太陽,單邊臉經過長時間太陽的曝曬,導致左右臉如此大的差異性,看到照片還敢不防曬嗎!!

防曬重要性
Photo Credit: Unilateral Dermatoheliosis Jennifer R.S. Gordon, M.D., and Joaquin C. Brieva, M.D.
N Engl J Med 2012; 366:e25

本篇文章內容

看到了這張照片,相信大家已經準備開始要挑選防曬產品,請先別急!!要選到適合的防曬

首先我們要先花個幾分鐘了解紫外線UBA、UVB和防曬產品SPF、PA+++分別作用,才能夠挑選到適當的防曬產品。

陰天、多雲天也要防曬嗎?

陰天防曬

Yvonne幫客人作完臉,都會問客人要不要擦防曬,很多人會說:哎呀!外面陰陰的雲這麼厚,太陽都沒有,不用防曬啦!這樣是正確的嗎?

當然是錯誤的!因為『 看不到 』 、『感覺不到』,不代表不會曬黑,那是什麼會導致我們曬黑呢?要先來了解紫外線UA對人體的影響。

紫外線(Ultraviolet,簡稱為UV)

我們皮膚會曬黑、老化、曬紅、曬傷、脫皮等狀況都是受到紫外線穿透皮膚導致

紫外線依照波長可以分為:UVA.UVB.UVC這三種而UVC因波長較短傳不到地面,所以我們就針對UVA.UVB來作探討。

主要預防的紫外線

UVA.UVB都是波長較長的紫外線,會穿透大氣達到皮膚表面,兩者在於波長、能量、穿透力等等的差異

也會使皮膚造成不同的傷害( 曬黑、老化、曬紅、曬傷 )

UVA ( 全名:Ultraviolet Radiation A ) 曬黑、老化

防曬-曬黑

穿透力強:

UVA:波長可達320~400nm,高達約95%的UVA紫外線能穿透大氣雲層到達地面

因波長較長穿透力強,可以到達皮膚【真皮層】,使皮膚老化(皺紋)、曬黑,長期曝曬容易導致罹患皮膚癌機率增加。

能量小:

UVA:能量小,感覺不到很容易被人忽略,但要記得UVA能夠穿透雲層直達人體真皮層,所以就像前面說的就算是陰天感覺不到炎熱也是要防曬。

UVB ( 全名:Ultraviolet Radiation B ) 曬紅、曬傷

防曬-曬傷

穿透力弱:

UVB:波長約280~320,約只有5%的UVB會傳達到地面,比起UVA波長較短,能量只能傳遞到皮膚的【表皮層】。

能量強:

UVB:雖然沒有UVA的穿透力,但UVB的能量強,會導致皮膚曬紅,曬傷脫皮,長期曝曬也容易導致皮膚癌機率增加。

防曬UVAUVB

💡防曬小知識 UVA以及UVB的差別
UVA:針對肌膚曬黑
UVB:針對肌膚曬傷、曬紅

防曬係數

SPF( 全名: Sun Protection Factor )延遲曬傷、曬紅

主要是一款防曬產品對UVB的防曬指標,SPF可以延長皮膚曬傷,曬紅的時間

★舉例:

如果一個人在沒擦防曬的情況下過了10分鐘就會曬紅曬傷,而擦了SPF50的防曬,過了500分鐘之後才會曬紅曬傷

SPF50【10分鐘*50倍=500分鐘】,SPF30就是 【10分鐘*30倍=300分鐘】 的概念。

PA( 全名: Protection Grade of UVA rays)延遲曬黑、老化

主要是一款防曬產品對UVA的防護等級,PA以+號來代表防曬強度等級,最低+到最高++++

PA 的+號越多就有越強的 UVA 防護效果,防止曬黑、曬老的能力就越強, PA 的+號可以PPD指數而定

★舉例

如果一個人在沒擦防曬的情況下過了10分鐘就會曬黑,而擦了PPD10(約PA+++)的防曬,過了100分鐘之後才會曬黑。

SP+FPA

💡防曬小知識 SPF 以及 PA 的差別
SPF : 主要是延緩UVB的曬傷時間
PA : 主要是延緩UVA的曬黑時間

UVA.UVB.PA.SPF總整理:

1. UVA(全名:Ultraviolet Radiation A):

波長較長穿透力強, 能量小,感覺不到很容易被人忽略,波長可以到達皮膚【真皮層】,使皮膚老化(皺紋)、曬黑,長期曝曬容易導致罹患皮膚癌機率增加。

2.UVB (全名:Ultraviolet Radiation B):

波長較短能量只能傳遞到皮膚的【表皮層】,雖然沒有UVA的穿透力,但UVB的能量強,會導致皮膚曬紅,曬傷脫皮,長期曝曬也容易導致皮膚癌機率增加。

3.SPF (全名: Sun Protection Factor ):

防曬產品對UVB的防曬指標,SPF可以延長皮膚曬傷,曬紅的時間,SPF防曬係數越高,皮膚延緩曬傷時間越長(延遲UVB曬傷、曬紅)。

4.PA( 全名: Protection Grade of UVA rays):

主要是一款防曬產品對UVA的防護等級,PA以+號來代表防曬強度等級,最低+到最高++++, PA 的+號越多就有越強的 UVA 防護效果 (延遲UVA曬黑、老化)。

物理性防曬vs.化學性防曬:

物理性的防曬:

物理性防曬就像皮膚穿了一層保護膜,分子較大不易進到角質層,光接觸到會折射出去,使紫外線不會進到皮膚裡。

物理性防曬示意圖
  • 原理 : 在皮膚形成保護膜,可反射、折射達到阻隔紫外線的效果。
  • 優點 : 是對皮膚的刺激比較小,較適合敏感性肌膚。
  • 缺點 : 厚重容易看起來泛白,裡頭有氧化鋅、二氧化鈦等成分,這兩個成分擦起來比較油膩

物理性防曬對於抗UVB紫外線的效果較好,但質地較為油膩,較不適合油性肌膚、痘痘肌 。

化學性的防曬:

化學性防曬分子較小,會進入到皮膚角質層產生作用,使紫外線吸收後轉化為熱能。

化學性防曬
  • 原理 :吸收紫外光,然後再把這個有害的紫外光轉化變成無害的熱能。
  • 優點::擦起來較清爽不黏膩,適合油性肌膚、痘痘肌。
  • 缺點 :可能有滲透皮膚,過敏的風險(除非有皮膚的一些特殊狀況,不然不用太擔心)。

化學性防曬對於抗UVA紫外線的效果較好,但可能容易過敏刺激,較不適合敏感肌

室內需要防曬嗎?

有專家測試過,基本上是內的燈光不會產生紫外線,只有一些比較特殊的例如:捕蚊燈但也是非常非常微量,所以室內是不需要防曬的

但有一點!就是如果座位是靠近窗邊的就建議加裝窗簾,或是需要長時間開車的朋友,建議車窗也貼上一層隔熱紙,因為紫外線是會穿透玻璃的哦。

正確防曬使用建議:

使用防曬,主要還是針對出勤場合,下列建議參考:

防曬係數

很多人其實接觸室外的時間不長,卻都喜歡用高防曬係數的產品,高防曬係數產品質地通常較為厚重,其實對粉刺與痘痘不太友善

要記得前面說的:防曬係數是延長曬黑、曬傷時間,所以接觸室外的時間不長的人建議使用防曬系數較低、保持肌膚清爽的產品即可。

防曬好處:

✅防止皮膚曬傷
✅防止皮膚變黑
✅防止皮膚長斑
✅防止皮膚老化、失去彈性
✅減少皮膚癌機率

Yvonne想對大家說的話:

防曬是保養皮膚很重要的一環,每一個人的狀況不一樣,沒有一款防曬是適合所有人的

要針對自己的需求找到最適合自己的防曬才能讓肌膚保持在健康的位置哦。

有任何建議或問題,歡迎 底下留言 給Yvonne哦,我會非常樂意回覆你

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